Mexico

As before, I'll begin with abject apologies for lack of updates, but suffice it to say that I will fill in the blanks at a later time WITH photographs of unusual splendour. Today we rode to the Mexican border which was a grand moment of great accomplishment in a very desolate field with water contamination that is better known as a California State park. Tomorrow we set off on our journey east through the desert and it should take a little over a week to get to Phoenix, AZ. Looking forward very much to the change in scenery and terrain as well as the challenge of the desert crossing. We're hoping to really make up some time as much of the terrain flattens out and becomes quite desolate. I'm doing much better riding these days, but climbing hills still tires me very quickly. It will just take time to regain the strength I lost and time is something I seem to have a lot of, these days! It's been great to ride with Don, and Camille is happy that I finally have someone else to badger! She got a thorough cleaning and tune-up and is ready for the next leg of the journey. Almost half-way! Happy riding!

latest update regarding accident

Thanks to everyone for reading and encouraging me on with this big adventure! It's been a rough couple of weeks, but things are beginning to look up again. I had my accident a week from last Monday, and was back on the road on that Thursday. Don and I took things slow for a while and we're starting to pick up the pace again. I apologize for the infrequent updates of the last few weeks, mostly due to the scarcity of libraries with internet along this part of the route! For those interested in Camille, after a night in the highway patrol station, she got another tire and front rim and brakes. There was a huge hole in her front tire and the handlebars were bent beyond belief, but she's doing just fine now. I still have a lump on my head, and still don't remember anything about the accident, but other than some bad headaches when I make a strenuous climb in the hot sun, that's doing much better. My arm is also healing: road rash is going down nicely and the strained muscle is nearly there as well. Still a bit of a black eye, but on the whole everything is healing up very well. I'm currently in Morro Bay, CA, and back up to regular riding days, so I'm excited to make up some miles! Thanks so much for all the well-wishes and prayers!

-from Morro Bay, CA

Kirk Creek Campground to San Simeon, CA - 44.3 miles

Great day today! According to Don, it's a "bluebird day". The ocean is roaring just yards from our campsite, but the tent is pretty wet from the dew and there are lots of insects now that it's getting warmer. One of the bugs had a huge pincer on its end, so I decided to let him stay where he wanted! It was pretty frustrating not to have potable water, but we tried out one of my water purification tablets and it seemed to work well. We rode to Plaskett Creek and got water at the campground there. We locked up the bikes and walked up the rode to Jade Cove where at the end of the headlands, we climbed onto the rocks and enjoyed the sunshine and the waves. It was a definite revisit spot. There was the thrilling dusky blue of the ocean laced with crashing white surf on the large boulders that made up the beach. Flowers of all kinds dotted the white and grey hillsides and crags rising abruptly from the rocky beach. Pink and white morning glories, red paintbrush flowers, purple lupines along with every imaginable shade of yellows and greens in the bushes. They lent the timeless bluffs elegance and charm and further inland the hills changed quickly to brown scrub-covered mountains. Butterflies chased each other in dizzying unending circles while the lizards scurried through the brush. There was a crisp cool breeze that brushed passed on its way up to the mountains and we lounged on the high rocks enjoying the sun's glorious rays as we soaked in the roar of the ocean. The huge climb over Big Sur was our next challenge and we slowly made our way to the top and began a thrilling descent into Ragged Point where we stopped for a long-overdue lunch. A burger with cheese and bacon and honey-jalapeno sauce and perfect curly fries was just the ticket. It was downhill from there to Piedras Blancas where we stopped to watch the elephant seals molt. Such funny creatures! Apparently elephant seals are not born with the ability to swim, which I found very interesting. They make the oddest noises as they mock-fight and flip sand continually over themselves. Just as we left, a German Harley motorcycle tour pulled in and we had to laugh at the fact that they had a SAG wagon! Onto Hearst Castle where we enjoyed the visitor's center and read up on the castle's story. It was pretty interesting to find out that William Hearst got tired of always camping on their land, so he decided instead to build a castle. Of course he also managed to do it in the great and grand European tradition and it's a pretty magnificent collection of art as well. While there, we learned that at Pacific Grove, there's a $500 fine for butterfly molestation, and that Kirk Creek campground formerly housed convicts who behaved well! The castle is huge and takes all day to tour, so we rode on to San Simeon Station where we stayed at the state park for the night. $2 for the both of us...a pretty good deal! The showers were hot and it was great to be clean again! We strolled down to the beach and enjoyed the ocean tides by moonlight and accompanied by the sounds of the freeway right next to it!

-from Morro Bay, CA

Pfeiffer-Big Sur SP to Kirk Creek Campground, CA - 48.9 miles

This morning after we packed up, we hiked up to Pfeiffer Falls. It was gorgeous, but full of mosquitos and we were glad to get back on the bikes. There was a nice big hill that warmed us up, and on the way up we passed two baby skunks! They puffed up their tails, but didn't seem to quite have the rest of the process down, which we were very thankful for!!! We stopped at the famous Big Sur Bakery and consumed lots of carbs! It was upwards and onwards to Julia Pfeiffer-Burns SP where we saw an 80-foot waterfall drop into the Pacific Ocean. Pretty incredible! The bay looked just like an oyster and it was a beautiful place. Finally we headed downhill and it was definitely a sunscreen extravaganza! When we pulled into Lucia we were the talk of the place and everyone gathered around to ask us all about what we were doing! We picked up dinner and gasped at the restaurant prices ($10 artichoke appetizers and 21.95 for a ravioli dinner) while we munched on a root-beer float cookie. It was downhill all the way to Kirk Creek and we were out of water only to discover too late that the water at the park was not potable...nice. We watched the sun set as we ate our spaghetti dinner and munched on shrimp crackers. Pretty awesome day!

update regarding accident

so...some may have heard a bit about my accident, and i'll post further about that soon, suffice it to say that i'm ok. lots of road rash, broken molar, concussion, black eye and some very sore muscles, but that's a lot better than it could have been. i'm staying in foster city, ca with my cousin john and riding partner don and working on recovering. the accident involved a downhill turn and a front-tire blowout and a lot of rocks, but it could have been so much worse! i'm very grateful for all your prayers as i recover. thank you all! :)

* Standish-Hickey SRA to MacKerricher SRA, CA - 40 miles

It's cold again! My food and I were safe through the night after all, and the sun was soon shining brightly to warm things up. My ears have been badly burned and blistered the last few days, so I have resolved to make a point of keeping them well-covered. I don't have far to travel today on account of the climbing to do. The very famous Leggett Hill is the first task of the day. I love the quote regarding this hill from Cycling the Pacific Coast by Spring and Kirkendall,

"Contrary to popular rumor, abandoned touring bags do not line the road, nor are there graves of cyclists who did not make it."

I set off and enjoyed the wonderful abundance of flowers by the roadside. Each day they seem to change just a bit and I love today's combination of buttercups and forget-me-nots which, with the ferns, carpet the forest floor. I psyched myself up for the big one, and found to my surprise that I was at the top without too much trouble. I was very pleased and decided that I was now in excellent shape! The descent was a bit hairy, tight switchbacks and narrow road. Luckily there was not much traffic and I zoomed down safely only to stop and fall over at the bottom of the hill! I quickly realized that there was another hill ahead, and it was equal to the first. Much tougher, actually, due to the fact that the first had worn me down a bit! Up to Rockport, and then the most amazing view coming out from the forest hills to the cliffs above the ocean!

I stopped at the first turnout and had a power bar picnic while watching the vultures wheel above the cliffs and the ocean waves crashing on the beach below. A beautifully scenic ride into MacKerricher State Park and I met my first manned ranger booth at the campground! The ranger directed me to a site already occupied by two hikers - Tracy and Adam. It was very interesting to meet them because they are on their way to Seattle and then onto Thailand! I took a hike out to the beach to catch the sunset, and met a couple traveling by RV. Andy and Kelly invited me to share their campfire and we talked for hours about pirates, bicycling, car shows, music, photography and life. It was pretty dark when I returned to my campsite, and I was very nearly lost in the maze of campground circles. Note to self...always carry a flashlight! :)

* Burlington SP to Standish-Hickey SRA - 48.2 miles

After a big breakfast, Camille and I were off and away to the Redwood Visitor Information Center. I had a long conversation with a very nice Ranger and learned quite a bit about the local botany as well as a man named Charles Kellogg, a.k.a. the Bird Man. He traveled the country in a Redwood tree converted into a wagon called the "Travel Log" and entertained all with his amazing ability to use his voice to speak to the birds in their own language. He could even extinguish fire with his voice! He made a lot of records and they're amazing to listen to if you get the chance. I've been seeing Kestrels and lupine along the road a lot lately. Today the Eel River looked especially beautiful with blues and emerald greens as it snaked along its way, carving through the landscape of redwood covered hills, its sandy edge dotted with mauve sweet peas, violet verbena and purple primroses. The sun shines through the clouds and the birds are just going crazy with their springtime songs. I passed such curiosities as the "One Log House", the "Living Chimney Tree" and the "Drive Through Tree". Hobbiton was a town full of kitsch curiosities and Phillipsville was a tiny, wisteria-enveloped village that reminded me of visiting Monet's home in Giverny, France. I stopped for lunch at the "Getti Up Drive-Thru Espresso and Cafe" in Garberville. Country music was played proudly at this odd restaurant. I met Tom, a geologist who deplored the logging being done "with reckless abandonment" in Oregon. Happily, California logging has become more conservative. We discussed alternate route options and the gal behind the counter said of one previous cyclist's proposed route, "it was nice knowing you!" as the local traffic tends to drive fast.

Further on, I missed my exit onto Benbow Drive and stayed on the freeway as I was too distracted by the hitchhiker being picked up by the state patrol. There were lots of large birds soaring above and I enjoyed the respite from freeway riding as I went along Cooks Valley. There is an abundance of road construction which makes for difficult riding and some very uncomfortable moments in especially narrow places. I stopped for a moment at the Living Redwood Tree House to ponder the flagrant commercialism which seems so strange in conjunction with the stately grandeur of the redwood forest. Dinner was at the "Peg House", guarded by an old police car with a couple of mannequins dressed up inside...guaranteed to cut down on speeding tourists! I ate my dinner at the campsite, but worried a little about my food stores as it appeared the provided "bear box" had been torn to shreds and was missing a door! There was only one other camper in the whole park, which seemed odd. Lots of interesting looking places are still "closed for season" which seems too bad.

Eureka to Burlington SP in Humboldt Redwoods, CA - 55.6 miles

I tried sleeping last night without my air mattress or pillow. Silly me! It was a terrible night of sleep and I got up about 6:30 to do laundry and shower. Endless hot water is a glorious thing! Intermittent rain again, and I set off into town where I caught glimpses of the cute victorian buildings. People are very friendly in this town, and I enjoyed many conversations as I biked slowly through town. A lot more scary freeway riding and then the highlight of the day: Avenue of the Giants. Truly incredible. Tall trees reaching for heaven, massive trunks, spiraled branches, mossy weathered grey bark, vivid green ferns, and carpeting the ground red cones and needles...the sunlight visible in broken beams. The redwoods are magnificent and not easily put into words. One must definitely experience them to appreciate, but they bring you to your knees.

-from Foster City, CA

Elk Prarie SP to Eureka KOA, CA - 51 miles

It was an early start this morning and I said farewell to the elk as I rode off through the fog. I made an attempt to visit the Ladybird Johnston redwood grove, but the hill was just too long and steep. I finally turned around and hit over 40 mph on the way back down! The view of the ocean was as always amazing, with dark blues and a cloudy grey sky as a backdrop to the reflected grey-green of the ocean...white surf crashing on a black sand beach...freshwater lagoon behind me and a fog obscuring the redwood-covered hills...purple, yellow and white lupines line the roadside. The road went through the lagoon area and took an interesting route past Trinidad. Landslides had torn the road away and it was closed to traffic and I got off and walked the bicycle through on what was left of the gravel path. I enjoyed meeting Robin and Tiffany at one of the viewpoints and we encouraged each other. The sea lions looked like larvae on the rocks below and I was pleased to spot my first whale spouts! The sea lions made some very weird noises, moans and barks. As I was about to go down a hill, I saw a parade of about a hundred cows coming up and the dairy farmer at their head. I stopped to let them pass and learned all about the trials and joys of dairy farming in conversation with the farmer. It was a wild ride from there on the freeway and I had to cross four freeway lanes of traffic to get to the KOA campsite. Sid was in an RV behind me and once across I enjoyed hearing about his trip from Canada with his wife and granddaughter that they were schooling along the way. More rain!

-from Foster City, CA

Elk Prarie SP rest day - 2 miles

This morning I woke up early as usual and tried to remind myself that it's a rest day and I don't HAVE to get up! I slept in until about 8am and enjoyed the bright, warm rays of sun streaming through my tent walls! I felt pretty stiff and sore, but after burning my fingers a few times on my campstove, no longer noticed anything else! I worked on getting all my papers dry and thought through my route a bit more. I've decided not to do the Lost Coast option, and enjoyed a piping hot breakfast of oatmeal and cocoa. I spent some time getting to know the unicycle boys and their father. They're high-school seniors doing a senior project of designing a unicycle route. Definitely not your average senior project! I watched them ride off for the day and had to laugh! It was just too funny and it seemed like something out of a fairytale book! Today is a rest day for Camille, but I'm planning on spending the day hiking through the redwoods. I stopped by the visitor's center where I picked up a map and a chart for identifying the plants and animals of the redwoods. The first hike I took was the Cathedral Trees, a short one and a half mile trip each way. I just can't get over how amazing the redwood forest is! The trees are so tall and seem to stretch endlessly above, while giant trunks plant them firmly to the ground in small family groups that hold each other up. The silence and hush of the redwoods is something else too. I'm not sure I've ever heard such quiet and utter stillness in a place before. It was very peaceful and made me very much in awe of the creator.

Back from the Cathedral trees, I walked the Prarie Creek trail to meet the James Irvine trail which would take me on a long 10 mile hike to Fern Canyon near the beach. I loved every minute of it, but my biking sandals started doing a number on my feet and it started to get dark, so I turned back just before reaching the canyon. I sure didn't want to get stuck out in the middle of the forest when it got dark! When I finally got back to camp, there were two girls set up beside me in the hiker-biker campsite! I was pretty amazed, but enjoyed meeting them briefly. They were riding from Portland, OR to San Francisco, CA. They were pretty giggly, and after a while I started to feel very old and serious! :) As I ate my dinner, the Roosevelt Elk started grazing all throughout the campground which was pretty much empty. They're amazing creatures and it was fun to munch my dinner while they grazed theirs. They would look up occasionally to watch as birds flew overhead. Sometimes this trip seems like a prolonged and extended search for a restroom, but a visit like this to the redwoods just puts it all back into perspective.

Brookings to Elk Prarie SP, CA - 70.7 miles

REALLY needed a shower this morning, and the water at this park is reputed to be very hot--true! :) My tent is finally dry, but was covered with spiders. Ugh. Set off about 9am and rode to the California border. HURRAH!!!!! I was overcome with happiness as I crossed the border into California. :) If nothing else, I've made it almost 1,000 miles! :) :) :) Lots of ocean, fields, cows, hills and forests today. As I rode through Fort Dick, I saw a goat tethered to someone's front lawn. Very efficient way to mow the lawn! Didn't see any hitchikers in the area of the state penitentiary, which was good! All the lily fields made me want to sneeze! Stopped for lunch in Crescent City. People there were very chatty and friendly and it was a nice afternoon. Headed out of town on the Redwoods Highway and passed the Citizen's Dock where many people were stopped to see the historic old boat that had come in. The lighthouse was driving me crazy with the foghorn! There were lots of surfers on the beach just outside of town and then it was into the big Crescent City hills. Wow. Talk about a LONG climb! I took it slowly and stopped to rest at the pullouts. Not much of a shoulder and it was pretty tough, but I finally made it to the top and saw another tourer coming up the other way. He was a proper tourer, but we were both so exhausted from our climbs that we nodded at each other wearily and kept trudging along. An exhilarating descent followed, but the road was a real challenge and not in very good condition, which made it quite exciting! Klameth was a mystery--much smaller, but way longer of a town than I had thought, so I ended up out of town and had to turn back to pick up groceries for my rest day. Everytime I go downhill at 35-40 mph and get hit in the face by the bugs, I always think of that V-8 commercial for some reason! I need to work on keeping my mouth shut, though! I hear that bugs are good protein, though. Perhaps it's not such a bad thing! The Golden Bear bridge was fun, and it was onto another long climb onto the Newton B. Drury scenic byway to the Redwoods park. It was pretty incredible, but I was too tired to be anything other than thankful that the last seven miles were downhill. On the way down I was stopped by a guy in a truck looking for his sons on unicycles. I think I would have noticed that! It was very late and cold to boot as I finally got into camp. All the food went into the bear box! There were lots of wild elk grazing around the park which was pretty amazing. All I wanted to do was to crawl into my sleeping bag!

-from Garberville, CA

Humbug Mountain SP to Brookings, OR - 58.1 miles

A saucy bluejay woke me bright and early this morning! A breakfast of granola and carrots got me off to an early start, though there was a lot of muttering under the breath about the cold! The bluejay inspected the packing up operation most carefully, and it seemed to meet his approval in the end. Great ride through the mountains and fantastic views coming into Wedderburn. I stopped at the Port Hole Cafe in Gold Beach for a much needed hot lunch. A double-bacon cheeseburger, fries and a blackberry pie, a la mode...yum! Cleaned my plate most thoroughly! It was a great boost for the next part of the trip, which included a big climb over Cape Sebastian. It looked worse on the elevation chart than it actually ended up being. I got to the top and thought...is this it? surely not! I was certain that I was going to go around another corner and it would be up again, but like the note on the pavement said, "just a warm-up". Pistol River looked like an interesting place, with many-colored dunes and grasses. Being in one of my time-stingy modes, I kept riding, but would have enjoyed hanging out for the day there. Further on, I met Joel, a not-very-well-prepared cyclist heading north. He had set out a few days earlier without raingear. It poured and then he had a flat and he didn't have anything to fix that either, so he ended up hitching a ride back into Brookings and was starting out again. He was of the "walk up all the hills" philosophy, but I didn't think any of it sounded like much fun. It takes all kinds, I guess. Another long climb to Cape Ferrelo and a wonderful, soaring descent! At the Brookings Fred Meyers, my cashier told me to look out for Ranger Dean in the state park if I had any trouble. Very kind! Dinner of bagels and cream cheese--I really miss milk products!!!

-from Garberville, CA

North Bend to Humbug Mountain SP, OR - 65.6 miles

I had to make up the lost miles from the day before, so I got an early start. The sky threatened rain, but I outran it and enjoyed a beautiful day. The Seven Devils Road was a fantastic ride and I enjoyed reading the many funny comments left on the road obviously for cyclists. It looked a lot like the woods of Washington which was surprising after all the coastline I've been seeing recently. A stiff climb led to a fantastic descent on Whiskey Run Lane. "Let the fun begin" said the note on the road! Onto Bandon, my new favorite town. It helps the scenery so much when it's not pouring! The Face Rock viewpoint was a lovely little stop and I enjoyed a picnic lunch later on the roadside. There were no bungees today...maybe the rain is related to the bungees? Just a thought. :) An interesting sight on the road today was a mini-van pulling a small cannon...make of it what you will. I got the full range of scenery today: ocean, dunes, forest, mountains, lakes, rivers, rugged cliffs and sandy beaches. I could just go on and on about the sunshine, but suffice it to say that I was VERY grateful! I arrived in plenty of time to Humbug Mountain SP and set up in a lovely spot at the hiker/biker camp. I've come to enjoy the solitude of these campsites set apart, usually in a lovely spot. Much nicer than the regular tent sites. Some great road names to add to the collection:
Wind Jammer Ln.
Whale Watch Way
Tish-a-tang Rd.
Qua-Mah Rd.
Stonecypher Rd.

-from Gold Beach, OR

Honeyman SP to North Bend, OR - 43.7 miles

It was still raining in the morning and I waited until a lull to get packed up. I'm getting to be pretty good at cooking my breakfast just outside the tent door! It was a pretty late start, though. There were brief little moments of sunshine early in the day, but it soon turned to a steady downpour. It became an unending battle. Headwinds, crosswinds and huge gusts of rain. It was all I could do sometimes to stay upright. Moving forward and staying on the road were my only thoughts. I stopped for lunch in Reedsport and enjoyed a brief respite. Back on the road it only got worse. The rain poured from the sky in an unending, relentless downpour with the wind battering me from every side but the back. All I could do was keep my head down and my heels churning. Pretty soon I realized I couldn't feel my hands or legs from the knees down. I was cold, wet and felt very alone. After crossing the north side of the North Bend bridge on foot, I could finally feel my feet again, but entering into town, I realized that trying to make it another 15 miles and then setting up my already wet tent in the downpour was foolish. I found a very cheap motel and the receptionist had to help me fill out the form because I could hardly hold the pen. I was shaking with cold and once I got Camille into the room, turned the heater on full blast. It was a pretty miserable day. It was wonderful to be warm and have a dry roof overhead.

-from Gold Beach, OR

Waldport to Honeyman SP, OR - 40.8 miles

I got off early this morning in hopes of having plenty of time to enjoy the dunes. Rain. Lots of it today. The Devil's Churn was a fun stop and I met John, who runs a free bike program in Waldport. Lots of hills here and my last tunnel. Because I'm so early in the year, I haven't had to fight so much of the tourist traffic through these tougher bits like the tunnels and bridges. The tunnels are pretty interesting though. When you get to them, you have to press a button that activates lights to let traffic know that there is a cyclist in the tunnel. Lights on, you wait for a break in the traffic and then pedal as fast as you can, stopping to collapse at the rest point on the other end. I stopped at the Darlingtonia site where they have hundreds of pitcher plants...creepy! Another bridge into Florence through the pouring rain. As I rode through town, I got an encouraging "Keep Going!" and a thumbs up from a man on the sidewalk. Sure needed some cheer after all this depressing weather. I finally arrived at the Jessie M. Honeyman State Park and forced myself to trek through the dunes. There wasn't much to see in the rain, but I could tell that it would have been pretty incredible with some sunshine!

-from Gold Beach, OR

random thoughts from the road

There's plenty of time to ponder as you bike down the road. Whether you're on a flat stretch, fighting the wind or chugging your way up a long climb, very random thoughts are endless. Whether it's counting bungee cords, collecting interesting road names or stopping to enjoy the view, life on the road is pretty simple. Today was a three bungee day, and my collection of peculiar road names currently includes the following:

Mild Curry Road
Bear Trap Blvd.
Four Sisters Road
Goodspeed Road
Bear View Lane
Shark Creek Lane
Monkey Hill Road

I find myself scorning towns with road names that are simply mundane or follow obvious patterns such as all fruit trees, states or minerals. Centralia, WA was one such town. I am bored when I see the ever-present "Fir, Oak and Pine Streets" and view with mild horror those roads with the name "Hill" present.

Tunnels and bridges, though pleasant to look at are never enjoyable to cross. Chipseal roads though rough, are better than loose gravel or sand. Falling rocks, steep cliffs and tsunami zones tend to put me on edge but all are preferable to riding on a road without a shoulder. I will never tire of the view and sound of the ocean crashing on the shore. I am learning to be street-savvy and finding unique solutions to the problems of the day is a pleasant art. The hills I take one pedal-stroke at a time and always reach the top eventually. I find humor in the little things along the way, and persevere in keeping my passion though the road may be long. God is my strength and my song.

-from Waldport, OR

Otter Rock to Waldport, OR - 28 miles

More snow this morning, but it passed quickly. A bit of a late start, but not far to go today. It was, however, very windy and rainy. Crossing the bridge out of Newport was miserable. There was a strong crosswind that blew the rain straight sideways. I tried to thaw the right side of my face out at every turret I could find to hide behind. At Seal Rock I stopped at Kadi's Fudge Shop and had a couple of pieces in honor of Doris! :) Maple nut and straight chocolate...very good. It was nice to take a break from the battle against the wind and rain every couple of miles as I stopped at the many parks and waypoints along the coast. Once in Waldport, I stayed with friends of my brother David. It was fun to meet their family, play with the kids and hear their stories. Many thanks to Laura for sharing her room! :)

R&R with Dan and Doris

It's been really nice to be off the bike for a couple of days. I've been learning all about this part of my family from Doris and Dan, and a full history of the Otter Rock area as well. I've been very glad to be sleeping in a warm house instead of a tent as it's REALLY cold and there was over an inch of snow on the ground this morning. Yesterday it hailed repeatedly throughout the day and some of it was pretty good-sized. Highlights from a quick tour of the area were definitely: wine-tasting at the Flying Dutchman Winery, watching the Devil's Punchbowl in action, and a visit to the aquarium in Newport which was very fun. I'm learning a lot about the local animals and environment which has been quite interesting.

-from Otter Rock, OR

Cape Lookout to Otter Rock, OR - 52.8 miles

It was SO cold this morning! I was glad to eat my hot soup and quickly packed up. Lots to do today so I needed an earlier start. I was disappointed not to meet the other biker as they were still snug in their tent as I left the park. I started with a three mile climb to the top of Cape Lookout. There was a hang-glider getting set up at the top, but he was hoping for a lull in the driving rain before he took off! At the small grocery in Sandlake, the clerk informed me that there was snow in the forecast...not so good for me! Snow at the ocean in mid-April. go figure. I pretty much froze today. The miles and miles of sand dunes dotted with pine trees and wild grasses were another highlight today. Sadly, it was only a two bungee day.

Cape Kiwanda was a fun stop and I had to laugh at the surfer who was having a blast in the roaring surf and giant waves. I sat on a large piece of driftwood and enjoyed the busy scene around me but didn't climb to the top of the dunes. Where did my sense of adventure go? Every time I get off the bike and walk around to look at things I keep thinking about the miles I have left for the day and bemoaning the energy I'm expending to go and look at the sights! I feel pretty lazy and have resolved to be more energized in the near future. We'll see how that goes! Back on the bicycle to Lincoln City, where I visited the Pig N Pancake for another big lunch. Lincoln City had quite a bit of traffic, but once through, there were some spectacular views at little parks all along the way. I stopped briefly to watch the whale-watchers at Depoe Bay, but the water was pretty rough and I'm not sure if they could really see much even with binoculars. It wasn't far from there to Otter Rock, where I was excited to meet some relatives for the first time! We had a great evening of exchanging stories and working our way through the family tree.

-from Otter Rock, OR

Nehalem Bay to Cape Lookout SP, OR - 51 miles

I was awake early this morning, but when it's cold it takes a long time to convince myself to crawl out of the warm sleeping bag and start the packing up process. There was a light mist as I loaded up Camille and we set off to see the dunes in the park. It was too dark the night before to try to find them, but the roar of the ocean was nearby. It was incredible. I've been thinking a lot lately that there just aren't enough words to convey the vistas and scenes I've been privileged to see. Incredible, awe-inspiring, beautiful, amazing, great, glorious, phenomenal, and...to quote the princess bride... "inconceivable!" :) It was also at this point that I realized that I'd just used up all of my 1-GB memory card in my camera. So, photos are coming. Not all of them, mind you, but just the most interesting ones.

I decided not to follow my ACA map today and instead rode along Hwy. 101. I was very glad that I did that because I would have missed some great views of the sea stacks otherwise. It was also a pretty flat road and I zoomed along at a good clip. If it is truly flat, I can keep a steady 15mph going, but when the road goes up, I slow down real fast! I ate up the miles to Tillamook and stopped off to see the Cheese Factory. That was really interesting. I enjoyed watching the factory in action. It reminded me very much of Charlie and the Chocolate Factory and the Oompaloompas. The workers dressed in white worked steadily to keep the cheese in line and at the proper weight while glancing up at the watchers above and giggling and pointing. Tasting the samples was most enjoyable...cheese curd, mild cheddar, medium cheddar, sharp cheddar, extra sharp white and jalapeno. The cheese curd was definitely my favorite, with its squeaky bland density. I studied the cow chart and think I should be able to properly identify the rest of the cows that I encounter on my journey! I visited the ice-cream shop and tried out a hot-fudge pistachio-pecan sundae. Delicious!

I rode into Tillamook and while I was parking Camille in front of the Safeway, had an interesting conversation with a man who lives with his girlfriend in a tent on his waterfront property. He's unable to work due to a broken neck and had a trailer home which he gave up to another family with young children who didn't have a place to live.

Onto the "Three Capes Scenic Route". The name alone warned me that my beloved flatland was soon to be a thing of the past...and it was so. It started off as rolling farmland with a stiff headwind, which wasn't such a bad thing as I passed field after field of cows! I rounded the first peninsula and the headwind was gone, but a huge climb awaited me. Cape Meares was one of the toughest I've seen so far. Not only was it a stiff climb on a narrow road with no shoulder, but the road was cracked with giant potholes and sloppy repair jobs turning into loose-packed large gravel where the road had washed down the cliffside. Whew! I began to despair ever making it to the top, but kept pedaling and watched the insects zoom past me. Finally at the top, I nearly cried as I rode downhill on the sideroad to visit the lighthouse and the octopus tree, knowing that I would have to climb right back up to the top again! The view was worth it, though and it was very interesting to see the short little lighthouse with its Fresnel lenses. I was also intensely curious about the "octopus tree" which turned out to be a Sitka spruce that the rough cape weather had formed into a many trunked tree. The climb back up wasn't as tough as the first one and I really booked it to Cape Lookout State Park as it was pretty late. I arrived in camp about 9pm and found a huge repavement project in process right by the hiker/biker sites. The flashing lights and beeping finally stopped about 10 and I was surprised to find another biker set up already in the site. It's still pretty early in the season, so not many are out yet. Today was a three bungee day.

-from Otter Rock, OR