After a big breakfast, Camille and I were off and away to the Redwood Visitor Information Center. I had a long conversation with a very nice Ranger and learned quite a bit about the local botany as well as a man named Charles Kellogg, a.k.a. the Bird Man. He traveled the country in a Redwood tree converted into a wagon called the "Travel Log" and entertained all with his amazing ability to use his voice to speak to the birds in their own language. He could even extinguish fire with his voice! He made a lot of records and they're amazing to listen to if you get the chance. I've been seeing Kestrels and lupine along the road a lot lately. Today the Eel River looked especially beautiful with blues and emerald greens as it snaked along its way, carving through the landscape of redwood covered hills, its sandy edge dotted with mauve sweet peas, violet verbena and purple primroses. The sun shines through the clouds and the birds are just going crazy with their springtime songs. I passed such curiosities as the "One Log House", the "Living Chimney Tree" and the "Drive Through Tree". Hobbiton was a town full of kitsch curiosities and Phillipsville was a tiny, wisteria-enveloped village that reminded me of visiting Monet's home in Giverny, France. I stopped for lunch at the "Getti Up Drive-Thru Espresso and Cafe" in Garberville. Country music was played proudly at this odd restaurant. I met Tom, a geologist who deplored the logging being done "with reckless abandonment" in Oregon. Happily, California logging has become more conservative. We discussed alternate route options and the gal behind the counter said of one previous cyclist's proposed route, "it was nice knowing you!" as the local traffic tends to drive fast.
Further on, I missed my exit onto Benbow Drive and stayed on the freeway as I was too distracted by the hitchhiker being picked up by the state patrol. There were lots of large birds soaring above and I enjoyed the respite from freeway riding as I went along Cooks Valley. There is an abundance of road construction which makes for difficult riding and some very uncomfortable moments in especially narrow places. I stopped for a moment at the Living Redwood Tree House to ponder the flagrant commercialism which seems so strange in conjunction with the stately grandeur of the redwood forest. Dinner was at the "Peg House", guarded by an old police car with a couple of mannequins dressed up inside...guaranteed to cut down on speeding tourists! I ate my dinner at the campsite, but worried a little about my food stores as it appeared the provided "bear box" had been torn to shreds and was missing a door! There was only one other camper in the whole park, which seemed odd. Lots of interesting looking places are still "closed for season" which seems too bad.
Wednesday, April 30, 2008
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